The modelling world can be a bewildering and confusing place. There seem to be plenty of opportunities out there, but who can be trusted, and who just wants your money?
The crucial thing to remember is that no reputable agency will charge any money to sign you or to attend castings. Any agency that asks for money upfront is not your friend: back away and keep looking.
The key to avoiding modelling scamsis that if they promise you the earth, their ability to deliver on that promise is set at zero. The top agencies are experts in what the medical profession refers to as ‘managing expectations’. If you manage to bag yourself a meeting with one of these agents, they will be extremely guarded in what they can offer you. Because, as you probably have figured out for yourself, there are no promises in the modelling industry: there is no guarantee of success, even if you have that one-in-a-million face. The fashion world is notoriously fickle – what is right one week may be out of vogue the next.
When undertaking research, the internet can prove to be your best friend. However, type ‘modelling ’ into any search engine and you will come up against some of the greatest pitfalls too. If you receive or see any of the following, avoid like the plague:
• Online invites (via Facebook or any chatroom);
• Companies inviting you to pay large sums of cash to attend an ‘Assessment Day’ with a ‘top photographer’ to grade your suitability for the modelling world;
• Any agency that charges a ‘casting fee’ or advises you to spend large sums of money building a ‘professional portfolio’. The portfolio con is the oldest, and people are still falling for it: refer to Models Connect for advice on how to apply to modelling agencies.
These scams are run by individuals who have little or no connection with the legitimate modelling industry. Just keep in mind that as a general rule, the more they promise, the less you’ll receive.
Assuming you’ve found an agency’s website that you like the look of. There’s no mention of fees or expensive portfolios? Good. Look around the website for the use of these initials: AMA. These refer to the Association of Model Agents. This association represents the best modelling agencies in Britain, and the ones with the most work. There is no guarantee an agency affiliated with the AMA will accept you, of course, but if they do, you can be pretty much assured that you are in safe hands. Only reputable agencies are part of this organisation.
There is currently a booming industry catering to the aspirations of would-be models, and it is something you need to be aware of. You will almost certainly have seen the leaflets stuffed in among the pages of a magazine - a studio will offer you a professional makeover followed by a professional photo-shoot with a professional photographer, all for a moderate fee. It’s worth noting how many times their literature will use the word ‘professional’. Have you ever heard Rankin refer to himself as a professional photographer? No, he is a photographer, pure and simple.
At best, these studios can provide a day of harmless fun, dressing up and a few snaps. At worst, they can be predatory companies preying on the hopes and ambitions of would-be models. If any of these studios offer you ‘professional’ advice (there’s that word again!) in return for you purchasing a set of photographs, turn them down flat. These firms, whatever they may say, have no clout with the real modelling world.
These makeover studios are in the business of making money, not discovering talent. If you take the plunge and get a set of photographs from the makeover shoot, they will be of no use whatsoever in terms of building a modelling portfolio. If you’re not convinced, refer to the Models Connect advice on makeover and portfolio photographs. The difference between a makeover shoot and a fashion portfolio is night and day.
However, in avoiding cons, it is important to know that there are costs that you will be expected to meet:
• Travel expenses to and from castings and shoots, as well as visiting agencies
• Grooming (hair, make-up, skincare, fitness)
• Z-cards (these are a model’s ‘business card’ which you would be expected to take with you on any casting to leave with a client). Some agencies will pay the design and printing costs themselves, but others may charge you a fee.
When starting out a career in modelling, it is important to factor in these expenses. Grooming alone is a continuous expense and, at times, expensive. As a prospective model, you would be expected to take care of yourself as a matter of course. If you end up signing with an agent who thinks that your look needs a radical overhaul, then the agency will foot the bill for any major work (eg: dental procedures) and recoup the costs once you start wowing those clients.
That is the important thing to keep in mind throughout this experience: modelling agencies do not charge upfront, but claw back any outgoings once you start booking jobs. They take a percentage of your total fee, and that is how modelling agencies make their money. When you do well, they do well.
There are other pitfalls waiting out there too –during your internet research, you won’t have failed to notice adverts for modelling schools. Again, they promise much in return for a tidy fee. These businesses, while perfectly legal, offer poor value in terms of relevant experience and knowledge. If you do decide to enrol, be prepared to graduate with a very bad runway walk, and precious little else. For a much smaller investment, you can develop your poise by undertaking Pilates and yoga classes at your local health club. Pilates is particularly good for improving posture (a model must!) and yoga improves flexibility and muscle tone.
Taking up dance classes is also a good way of extending your repertoire in terms of movement – fashion modelling in particular values models that can move dynamically. It also has the added bonus of keeping you fit and being tremendous fun! So in essence, modelling schools aren’t really a necessary pathway to success. Think about the models you admire and google their biographies online: how many of them went to a modelling school ? You’ll be hard pushed to find one.
Finally, and more seriously, if you get to the point where contracts are involved, be wary and read all legal documents before signing anything. Check credits, check client lists, testimonials – check everything. Don’t be afraid to get legal advice before signing anything – any legitimate agent will not be offended by this.
Most importantly, trust your instincts and repeat after me: if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
